There is no controller setting.
It is version 2025.
Please refer to the captured image.
The InDesign Media panel no longer includes the Controller option. It was present in earlier versions of InDesign (Justin's reply on the Answer Exchange was from 2016).
With InDesign 2025, you can set the video controller to
by using the in5 Video interactive widget (in5 > Interactive Widgets > Video) when exporting HTML5 content with in5: